Canada's Queen Charlotte Islands

On a tiny island south of Alaska’s panhandle and ninety miles off the shore of British Columbia, a battery of weathered and decaying totem poles stare out to sea. These poles once declared the status of the powerful Haida Nation. Grizzly bears, eagles and killer whales, once magnificent specimens of the Haida’s talents are rotting and falling. It seems they are disintegrating back into the earth to join the people who carved them in such vivid detail.

An abandoned, windswept village in one of Canada’s newest national parks is even more special. Ninstints, as the long deserted village is called, has the most totem poles on the Pacific coast that still stand on their original site. It has been declared a World Heritage Site. It is an important legacy to the history and culture of not only Canada, but mankind as well.

Here, the decaying totem poles of the Haida people regain their dignity. These totems are not props or souvenirs that are peddled to tourists. They are a tangible link to the past – a time when there were no borders or boundaries, except those between the different tribes of Native people.

Other Indian ruins can be found in Gwaii Haanas, another park. Translated, Gwaii Haanas means “Island of Wonders” and the totems are indeed a wonder – magnificent specimens of bygone days.

The government of Canada is seeking to preserve these islands. The area is abundant with sea, animal and plant life. The area, recently declared a national park consists of 363,000 acres. The Canadian Government plans to extend protection to the waters surrounding the area, making it the largest contiguous marine conservation area in the world. The government is also regulating the number of visitors to the park. Only 175 people are allowed to enter daily. Approximately 3,500 visit every year.

The park is made up of 138 islands. Boaters and Kayakers flock to its crystal clear waters. Since there are no roads, people that don’t come by sea must come by air. Hundreds of visitors come to the islands drawn by the totems. Others come, seeking a wilderness experience.

The Queen Charlotte Islands are beautiful specimens of nature, but at times gale force winds sweep across them without warning. Mist and fog often settle over the islands like a soft veil, giving them a forbidden, mystical appearance. Then, the rains come, lifting the veil of fog so the sunlight can fall over the thick, lush rain forest. Evergreen trees within this Pacific rain forest stretch into the sky. Some are as tall as 150 feet. The moss that covers their gnarled roots is so thick that when you walk upon it, it’s like walking on lush, green carpet.

Wildlife abounds in the air, on the ground and in the sea. Bald eagles, puffins and peregrine falcons inhabit the air. Deer, introduced to the islands by man are plentiful, as they have no natural enemies.
A unique breed of black bear inhabits the island. It is one of several biological oddities that have contributed to the islands being called the Canadian Galapagos. This bear is larger than bears that inhabit the mainland and has stronger jaws that enable it to crack and eat various specimens of shellfish.

Researchers have found thirty-nine species of plant and animal life that are unique to the Queen Charlotte Islands. This area did not feel the full impact of the last ice age and these unique species evolved when the islands remained isolated from the mainland.

The Haida’s main staple was Halibut, an ugly fish with an off center face. Roasted over an open fire, it is mouth watering good. The Haida prized the fish and often carved it on their totem poles.

Kayaking is popular and as you venture out on an expedition, it isn’t unusual to see a seal surface to check out the most recent visitor. Bald eagles soar overhead as you skim over the water. Below is a virtual aquarium of sea creatures. Purple starfish sparkle against the green seaweed. Anemones and sea cucumbers cling to the rocks near shore while jellyfish glide through the crystal waters.

A snow-white raven nests near the village of Port Clements. It has been the center of much discussion. The Haida see the albino bird as a sign – an omen. They feel it may be the Raven of mystic legend, returning to play tricks on the humans who live on the island.

The Haida are extremely protective of the Queen Charlotte Islands. It took many years of anti-logging protests to convince the government to declare it a national park. In order to visit the Haida historical sites, you must either hire a licensed guide or attend a mandatory orientation session, which covers Haida history, safety precautions and camping techniques. The inconvenience is well worth the experience. What you will find is a wilderness area with no development or facilities and the lonely twenty-three totem poles that remain at Ninstints.

The world has progressed as these totems stand, like sentinels, over the village that was wiped out in 1863 by an epidemic. Their creators have almost vanished. The Haida culture has almost been destroyed.

In 1969, a totem pole was raised in the village of Massett. Since then, other Haida traditions have been revived. It seems that both the Haida and the totems have been revived. It seems that both the Haida and the totems have risen again.

Upon departing, if you look closely at the totems, it seems that smiles creep across their weather-scarred cedar faces. Once again, they will stand in silence. Sentinels of a bygone era.

This article was first published at Suite101.com in 2004